How I Build Top Bar Hives
Building my top bar hives.
My tbh bodies are built from 1″ x 6″ x 6′ lumber. These boards are glued together forming the basic building stock.
Individual parts are cut out of the building stock. Then they are glued and screwed together.
They are 1 1/4″ wide. Are 1″ thick. And a 1/8 inch saw kerf is cut down the center. That kerf provides a footing for a beeswax bead run down the length of the top bar.
A few additional top bars are built and ripped into spacing strips and cut for spacing cleats.
My covers are flat and are insulated with 2″ of blue foam. They telescope down to cover the ends of the top bars. Sheet metal or corrugated roofing waterproof them.
Next make the top bars. I make mine from studs as they are cheap and easily obtained. And at 1 3/4″ thick, they are a near fit to a top bar width. A table saw is used to the rip top bars. For rigidity, I rip my top bar stock 1″ thick. Then cut the top bar width to 1 1/4″.
A 1/8″ deep saw kerf is cut down the bottom center. And then they are cut them to the right length.
The saw kerf with hot molten beeswax. Then a second bead of cooler melted beeswax is run on top of the first one. A slightly raised beeswax line results. It is firmly attached and runs down the center of each bar.
This top bar is easy and fast to build. It’s strong and stores readily.
I build several extra top bars and rip them into 1/4″ strips. They take the place of a couple of top bars toward the rear of the hive. These strips are inserted between top bars, in the honey storage area, when the bees want a wider comb width. And they are removed when the wood swells to allow easy top bar hive removal.
Two additional top bars are cut to 1 1/8″ width and used as spacer cleats on each end of the hive.
Cover and Accessories
My covers have a frame of 3/4″ lumber covered by 1/2″ OSB. I insulate them with 2″ of blue foam. They telescope down to cover the ends of the top bars. Sheet metal or corrugated roofing waterproofs the flat covers.
Need plans? Check out my Plans page.